The Textile Industry

The early history of the textile industry in Somercotes probably started in the mid-16th century. During the reign of Henry VIII in the year 1533, the cultivation of flax in England was ordered by Parliament. This statute affected every parish in the country. It was originally seen as a way to provide employment to the poor of the parish, so that they would not become a burden to the Lords of the Manor and their overseers. The land to the rear of the Black Horse Inn at Lower Somercotes was commonly known as “Flax Croft”. Reginald Johnson, in his book “The History of Alfreton” recorded that the Alfreton Church Terrier of 1698 (a type of account) stated “Ye small tythe of flax, for every peck of seed sown 6d, or gathered in kind”. It seems that the vicar at the time had levied a tithe or tax on flax growing in his parish, which he was allowed to do. Perhaps the most interesting part of Johnson’s narrative on cloth making in Somercotes is his reference to a bleaching ground on Somercotes Common, which transcribed is as follows: “An open site on the edge of Somercotes Common was a bleaching ground for the linen, as early as 1652. Three hundred years ago an observer would have seen the lime-bleached linen, stretched on wooden frames, drying and whitening in the sun and wind”.

Framework Knitting was an occupation prevalent in the 18th and 19th centuries in Derbyshire. In the mid-19th century Swanwick in particular had more people involved in knitting than almost any other industry. The 1881 census return for Somercotes records Hugh Elliot, aged 61, framework knitter of Coupland Place; Joseph Matthews, aged 59, framework knitter of Seely Terrace; Joseph Maltby, aged 59, framework knitter, also of Seely Terrace; Eliza Reeder, aged 47, framework knitter of Nottingham Road and Elizabeth Barlow, aged 39, stocking knitter of Coupland Place. By the census return of 1911, this cottage industry had virtually died out. Listed in this census is Alfred Elliot, aged 41, framework knitter of Wood Street, Leabrooks. All of Alfred’s sons were recorded as coal miners.

Although the art of framework knitting disappeared from the area, it was later replaced by the modern methods used in the mills of Cromford and Belper. The textile industry in Somercotes would later flourish again during the 20th century.

GEORGE EDWARDS & SONS LTD, 1918
EVERLASTIC LTD, 1945
DAVID GIBSON LTD, GOWN & SUIT MANUFACTURERS, 1947
WILLIAM HOLLINS & CO. LTD. [AERTEX], 1948
DALKEITH KNITWEAR LTD, 1951
MONTFORT (KNITTING MILLS) LTD, 1965

1. GEORGE EDWARDS & SONS LTD, 1918

The firm of George Edwards & Sons Ltd was founded, not surprisingly, by George Edwards. George was born at Alfreton in 1867 and by the census of 1881 lived at Leabrooks with his parents and siblings. The census records that George had followed his father into the collieries and his occupation was noted simply as a coal miner. He married Lydia Parkin in 1894 and by the late 1890s had made the transition from coal miner to draper and outfitter. The couple lived on Somercotes Hill at the junction with Quarry Road, where they had a drapers shop. How and why George moved from miner to draper is not known. They also later opened another shop on Quarry Road.

It is likely that George started in the manufacture of hosiery while his wife ran the drapery business, but by 1918 it is known that the firm of George Edwards & Sons had been established and was employing about eight staff at the time. George ran the business from his premises at 99, Somercotes Hill, which were substantial enough to see the firm expand over the next few years.

In 1920, the firm became a limited company. The Sheffield Daily Telegraph, published on 3rd December printed the following news: “NEW COMPANIES REGISTERED - George Edwards and Sons, Ltd.—Private company; registered November 29th. Capital £5,000 in £1 shares. To take over the business of a hosiery manufacturer, etc., carried on by G. Edwards at Somercotes, near Alfreton, Derbyshire as ‘George Edwards and Sons.’ The first directors are: G. Edwards, 99, Somercotes Hill, Somercotes. near Alfreton; H. W. Edwards, 99 Somercotes Hill, Somercotes, near Alfreton; A. C. Edwards, 99, Somercotes Hill, Somercotes, near Alfreton. Secretary: H. W. Edward. Registered office: 99, Somercotes Hill, Somercotes, near Alfreton.” The two other directors mentioned in the article were George’s eldest sons.

The business on Somercotes Hill was so successful that by 1925 George had purchased land on Quarry Road and had built a new hosiery factory. Kelly’s Directory published that year records George Edwards & Sons Ltd, hosiery manufacturers at 99 Somercotes Hill and at their new “Charles Street Works, Quarry Road, Somercotes.”

Although initially it appears that the business operated from both premises, within a few years manufacturing was solely concentrated at the Quarry Road site and the original location was advertised for sale. The Sheffield Telegraph, published on 22nd June 1927 ran the following notice: “FREEHOLD BUSINESS PREMISES, with good living accommodation, garden and large outbuilding for sale with vacant possession, situate 99, Somercotes Hill, Somercotes on the Alfreton-Nottingham main road; suitable for drapery, clothing or multiple business; corner position with about 14 yards plate-glass windows; living accommodation of 9 rooms, bathroom, large cellar, garden and concreted yard; outbuildings include a building of 2 floors, each 40ft x 18ft – Apply George Edwards and Sons Ltd., Somercotes, Derbyshire.” George Edwards continued to manufacture a range of fine hosiery and introduced several brand names, including “Varsity” and “English Rose”. They made silk hose for the Royal Household and much of their production was exported through a network of world-wide agencies. Over the years there were many adverts for vacancies appearing in local newspapers. An advertisement in the Nottingham Evening Post, Saturday 17th November 1928 read: Wanted - Cottons Patent Hands for 39gg Frames, none but fully competent men need apply. George Edwards & Sons, Somercotes, Derbyshire.

The Daily Derby Telegraph published the following advertisement on Saturday 23rd October 1948: To all girls leaving school: train for highly skilled work in the hosiery industry, exc. pay and conds. – full welfare facilities. Personnel Office, George Edwards & Sons Ltd, Quarry Road, Somercotes.

After a move from Somercotes the Edwards family lived at Hollyhurst House, Riddings, the former home of several members of the Oakes family. George’s wife, Lydia, died there on 28th February 1930 at the age of 67. George himself died seven years later. His obituary was printed in the Ripley & Heanor News on 14th May 1937: “IMPOSING FUNERAL AT RIDDINGS - Two hundred employees of Messrs. George Edwards and Sons Ltd., hosiery manufacturers, Somercotes, attended the funeral on Monday of the head of the firm, Mr. George Edwards, of Hollyhurst, Riddings. Mr. Edwards, who was 70 years of age, was formerly in business as a draper and outfitter at Somercotes, and was the founder of the firm of Messrs. George Edwards and Sons Ltd. about 15 years ago. The business expanded rapidly in recent years, and there are now several hundred employees. A gifted musician, Mr. Edwards was formerly conductor of the Apollo Glee Party and organist and choirmaster at Riddings Congregational Church. The Rev. F. E. Christian (vicar of St. John's, Derby, and formerly a vicar of Riddings) conducted a service in Riddings Parish Church prior to the interment. Mr. Ernest Bettison was at the organ. The grave was lined with evergreens, daffodils and narcissi…” There followed a long list of mourners.

From 1st June 1941 clothing was rationed and a year later a range of utility garments were introduced. Strict rules were established and enforced and many manufacturers began producing clothes for the armed forces. As the Second World War came to end restrictions were slowly lifted, and the fashion industry began to look forward to the future. It is perhaps surprising that business for many manufacturers not only remained but developments in both products and production continued. This can be seen in a record regarding a patent applied for in the United States and filed on 12th June 1944 which refers to a “circular knitted stocking”. An extract of the patent reads: “…Patented Mar 2 1948, No. 2,437,195 CIRCULAR KNITTED STOCKING. Arthur Leonard Hunt, Nottingham, England – assignor to George Edward & Sons Limited, Somercotes, Derbyshire, England. This invention relates to the improvements in circular knitted stockings"

Despite the war in the Far East continuing, by mid-1945 trade fairs and exhibitions were being held around the country. The Derby Daily Telegraph of Monday 9th July 1945 reported that an exhibition of “… the latest textile developments” was to be held at Derby Art College, “… in preparation for when restrictions are lifted”. One of the exhibitors listed was George Edwards & Sons Ltd.

George Edward’s three sons had continued the business after his death in 1937 but over the years other directors were appointed and the firm slowly lost its “family” history. Whether or not due to changes in management or simply a marketing update for the company, by the mid-1950s the firm was known as English Rose Ltd, taking the new name from one of their best known trade-marks. The change can be seen by a short notice printed on 12th October 1956 in the Birmingham Post, which reported: “Dr. D. Starkie, director of research at the Hosiery and Allied Traders Research Association is to join the Board of English Rose Ltd., hosiery manufacturers, Somercotes, Derbyshire as director of research.” Another short article published the following year in the Ripley & Heanor News dated 27th September stated in part: “…English Rose Ltd., which was formerly George Edwards and Sons, had been established over 50 years…”

Many smaller companies relied on research and development to prosper, especially in an increasingly competitive market, and English Rose had continued their applications for worldwide patents. In 1957, the company applied for planning permission to use Smalley Hall at Belper as a base for research purposes and to create a temporary laboratory. In the application, it was stated that the 30 room property was owned by Mrs Edwards, wife of H. R. Edwards, Chairman of the company. The application was the subject of a local inquiry and was eventually refused by the Inspector of the Ministry of Housing and Local Government on the grounds that there was sufficient room for the company to expand on their Somercotes factory site. The details were extensively reported in local newspapers, including the Ripley & Heanor News on 27th September 1957. Reinforcing the change of company name the newspaper reported that Mr. Edwards was Chairman of “…English Rose Ltd, which was formerly George Edwards and Sons, [and] had been established for over 50 years…” The company appealed against the decision and it was then granted in October the same year.

English Rose Ltd had always relied on a buoyant export market as well as their home sales but during the post-war period competition from abroad increased and many companies, particularly in the textile and hosiery industry, began to see a downtown in their export business. Foreign competition and the need to increase their research to regain this business was one of the main reasons given to open the facility at Smalley Hall.

As with other companies in similar circumstances there was a need to develop alternative ways of selling their products and even entering into partnerships with other firms. For Christmas 1960 English Rose Ltd was offering gift sets of their products, advertised in newspapers up and down the country: "FOR HER: English Rose Ltd., individual gift box containing one pair of 15 den. Nylons. Colours; Café Glace, Blush and Image…. 10/11d."

Issues with their business can be seen in a short article printed in the Birmingham Daily Post on 21st December 1960 when 100 employees of the company were laid off for two weeks. A company spokesperson at the time attributed their stock levels and changeover from winter to spring fashions for the need to cut production. It was one of many temporary lay-offs.

The first of many mergers and takeovers took place in 1964, when the firm merged with two other companies, who became subsidiaries to English Rose. The Birmingham Daily Post reported on 23rd November: “Midland firms' merger - English Rose Ltd., of Somercotes, Derbyshire; A. Booth & Sons Ltd., of Ilkeston, Derbyshire and Bluebird Hosiery and Knitwear Co. Ltd., of Earl Shilton, Leicestershire have announced the merger. The share capital of English Rose Ltd. has been increased to £500.000, all of which has been issued and is fully paid up. The consolidated total assets of English Rose and its subsidiaries are now in excess of £2m. The Board of English Rose has been reconstituted and comprises Mr. A. R. J. Emery (chairman), Mr. E. L. Byrnes, Mr. F. L Taylor, Mr. H. Tuley, Mr. W. W. Thompson and Mr. G. A. Coles.” It is noticeable in this article that not one director with the name Edwards was present.

In 1965 it was announced by the company that a dye house would be built on the Quarry Road site. The Birmingham Daily Post published on 4th September reported: “…Automatic dye-house plant costing £300,000 will be built at Somercotes, Derbyshire by English Rose Ltd., for a group of companies to dye stockings. It will provide about 30 more jobs. The firm employs 300 people.” The dye house was operated by Stevensons (Fabric Dyers) Ltd. There is little information available on the relationship between the two companies but it seems to have been a partnership of some description. From advertisements for job vacancies appearing in local newspapers over the years the dye house certainly appears to have been run independently of English Rose Ltd.

From the late 1960s onwards there were many take-overs and mergers within the textile and hosiery industry. Although documentation will be available it is not widely accessible and a great deal of confusion exists. The main protagonist within the industry was no doubt Courtaulds, who not only took control of numerous organisations but proceeded to close, merge and change companies to suit their own business model.

It is during this turbulent period that the name English Rose disappeared from newspaper reports in regard to Somercotes, although it was still in use. By the mid-1970s workers at the Quarry Road factory were being employed by Simpson Wright & Lowe Ltd, but changes were not to end there. By the early 1980s several mergers resulted in English Rose Ltd becoming part of Mansfield Hosiery Mills, along with several others, and the registered office, no longer at Quarry Road, was based at Huthwaite. The London Gazette of 27th January 1981 listed the company, amongst many others,

in regard to special exemption orders for the employment of young persons under the Factories Act 1961: “Meritina/Two Steeples/English Rose Ltd, Fulwood Industrial Estate, Common Road, Huthwaite, Sutton-in-Ashfield.” It was in the 1980s that the factory on Quarry Road became known as Two Steeples Ltd, a company which began life in Wigston Magna, Leicestershire many years previously.

Throughout the changes in ownership the factory and workforce remained essentially the same. This can be seen in an article from the Derby Daily Telegraph published on 16th June 1987: “LONGEST serving employee - Mrs Bessie Wood has retired after 45 years with a Somercotes clothing factory. Miss Wood (59), of 2 Market Place, Codnor, worked with Two Steeples Ltd and received retirement gifts from factory manager David Wilkinson and personnel director Peter Barton. When she began work at the Quarry Road factory it was known as George Edwards and Sons, which was later taken over. The factory is part of the Nottingham Manufacturing Company Ltd."

According to the Coats Group website, Meritina (and therefore presumably Two Steeples and English Rose) became part of Coats Viyella in 1987. The Mansfield & Sutton Recorder of 13th August 1987 printed a large advert for vacancies in the factory: “Two Steeples Ltd, part of the Coats Viyella Group, has grown substantially over the last four years mainly through its investment in people. We are leading clothing manufacturers designing and producing for Marks & Spencer a wide range of fashionable leisurewear. We are currently looking for Skilled Overlock & Lockstitch Machinists - Interested? Then come and talk to us at our factory in Quarry Road. Somercotes, Derbyshire… Coats Viyella plc.”

In 1988 another change was made when Two Steeples and Meritina were merged with others to become part of CV Apparel Ltd (the initials standing for Coats Viyella), although the name Two Steeples was still used. Despite cosmetic changes though, the business model of Coats Viyella was slowly switching to overseas production. Increasing foreign competition and the cost savings of moving production abroad meant that many of their British companies would face inevitable closure.

The Derby Daily Telegraph, published on 15th March 1989 reported: “More jobs axed by clothing company - Workers in the clothing industry - still reeling from news of the closure of a Derbyshire factory have been hit by another jobs blow. Coats Viyella, which this week announced it was closing a Somercotes plant with the loss of around 160 jobs, has now revealed a Uttoxeter factory is also to be axed and 60 jobs lost… At Somercotes the group is hoping to be able to find alternative jobs for some of the women machinists and staff at Two Steeples Limited, which will also close on June 9…”

Stevensons (Fabric Dyers) Ltd continued on the site after the closure of the hosiery factory, as witnessed by several newspaper adverts, including the Mansfield & Sutton Recorder published on 15th March 1990 for a trainee laboratory assistant.

Coats Viyella itself became part of the Quantum Clothing Group in January 2001, and still operated a small number of factories in the Mansfield and Sutton area.

2. EVERLASTIC LTD, 1945

Everlastic Ltd was primarily known for manufacturing ladies foundation garments. The company was incorporated in 1934 and their main factory was situated at Regent Street, Beeston. They established a factory at Somercotes which was situated on land off Nottingham Road, Somercotes Hill and which backed onto Birchwood Lane (currently occupied by Titan Trade Windows).

The Everlastic factory at Somercotes can be dated to around 1945. In 1945, Local Authorities were asked to undertake the issue of Licences for work on premises costing up to £100. Recorded in the records for the Alfreton Urban District was the following extract “Work is in progress at Everlastic Ltd., Somercotes, and after the necessary alterations have been made to the factory premises the Certificates will be issued”. An advertisement for an “Everlastic Ltd. Social Club, Somercotes - Modern and Old-Tyme Dance” appeared in the Ripley & Heanor News dated 28 March 1947. The dance was held at the Church Hall in Somercotes.

In 1952, there was an economic downturn in the industry which resulted in the closure of their Somercotes factory for one month. A total of 150 workers were temporarily out of work.

Prior to 1964, Everlastic had built a new factory on Nix's Hill, although the old factory continued to operate in tandem for many years afterwards. After the closure of the Wesleyan Chapel on Nottingham Road, these premises were also used by Everlastic to store cartons and other packaging for their products, an arrangement which continued for several years in the 1960’s. The Somercotes Hill factory finally closed in 1991, and the staff moved to the larger premises built on Nix's Hill.

ABOVE: Advert for "Everlastic" dating from the 1950s

The Everlastic group was one of the many textile businesses taken over by Courtaulds, and it was re-branded as Northgate Ltd. A manufacturer of foundation and swimwear garments for M&S, Courtaulds incorporated Everlastic into their Northgate group. After the Nix's Hill factory closed, the production of garments moved off shore exploiting the cheap labour markets in Morocco and later China.

If you have any further information on this company’s history, please let us know.

3. DAVID GIBSON LTD, GOWN & SUIT MANUFACTURERS, 1947

David Gibson Ltd was a gown and suit manufacturer, founded in Nottingham in 1940. The Nottingham Journal dated 28th December reported: “NEW COMPANIES - David Gibson Ltd., New-Square Low-pavement, Nottingham. To carry on the business of manufacturers and dealers in knitted fabrics and garments etc. Nominal £1,000 in £1 shares. Directors: D. A Gibson and Mrs. F. A Gibson…” Their Nottingham factory was originally based in Hyson Green, but in January 1946 the company moved to Stoney Street, Nottingham.

David Gibson Ltd manufactured expensive quality clothes. Unlike the Cellular Clothing Company and other larger textile businesses their products were not aimed at a mass market but promoted for a more affluent section of the population. To enable them to do this they advertised in certain magazines and opened show rooms in both London and Manchester.

When the need came to expand production they took a similar route to other Nottingham textile companies, opening a small factory on Sleetmoor Lane, Somercotes. The exact date they opened this factory in not known, but advertisements for machinists and other employees began around 1947. The following advertisement appeared in the Derby Daily Telegraph of 18 August that year: “SOMERCOTES – David Gibson Ltd, req. expd. Lockstitch Machinist for gowns and suits, 5-day week, ideal working conds. – Apply Sleetmoor Lane.”

On the tenth anniversary of the company the Nottingham Evening Post, published on 18th December 1950 printed the

following notice in the personal column: “All employees of David Gibson. Ltd., 52a Stoney-street, wish to express their appreciation and thanks to Mr. and Mrs. David Gibson for their generosity in commemorating the celebration of the firm's 10th anniversary…”

Over the years many hundreds of advertisements for the company appeared in local newspapers for factory operatives in both Nottingham and Somercotes, mainly for fully experienced machinists.

The reputation of the company grew over time. When the film Summer Holiday, released in 1963 and starring Cliff Richard, the Shadows and Una Stubbs, the costumes for the female roles were designed and made by David Gibson Ltd, styled at the time as the “David Gibson Fashion Group”. The company was part of an elaborate marketing campaign for the film and held fashion shows in twenty seven cities in the last months of 1962, before the film was actually released.

The company held many fashion shows during the 1960s, even attending relatively small local events. The Stapleford & Sandiacre News of 23rd September 1966 reported on a day long fashion show at Bramcote that included a section by the David Gibson Fashion Group: “… the average W.I. member who was well catered for by Autumn dresses and suits shown by the David Gibson Fashion Group of Nottingham, and which were modelled by W. I. members. The charm of this collection lay in the simplicity of style coupled with beautiful fabrics and colours…”

The premises in Somercotes were relatively small, and situated at 5-6, Sleetmoor Lane. Despite its size, it contributed toward the success and growth of David Gibson Ltd, although its existence was never acknowledged in any of the main advertisements or fashion shows. The company closed in the mid-1980s, and the premises were taken over by a local printing company. In the 2000’s the building was converted into apartments.

4. WILLIAM HOLLINS & CO. LTD. [AERTEX], 1948

4.1. HISTORY OF THE CELLULAR CLOTHING COMPANY AND THE AERTEX BRAND

A man named Lewis Haslam (1856-1922), a mill owner and politician, together with two medical acquaintances, began to experiment with the weave of a fabric after he apparently recalled an aunt discussing the warming effect of holes in cloth. They discovered that, far from a myth, an aerated fabric created pockets of heat and moisture which helped to insulate the body from the effects of cold, but conversely also kept the body cool in warm temperatures. They quickly realised the marketing value of such clothing from a health perspective, and set about trying to produce the fabric commercially. Lewis Haslam was a director of John Haslam & Company, who owned a mill at Bolton, Lancashire. In 1886 he secured a patent for a gauze fabric that later became known as Aertex, (an aerated textile) and in 1888 established the Cellular Clothing Company to market this new product.

Such was the nature of the product that sales rapidly increased and within a few years separate clothing factories were set up in Nottinghamshire to enable the company to cope with the demand. Through advertising the name Aertex quickly became a household name.

In 1929 the Cellular Clothing Company had a stand at the prestigious British Industries Fair and the brochure listed the company as “Manufacturers of Aertex Garments for Men, Women and Children”. During the Second World War the company produced clothing for various departments of the armed forces, which helped to spread the name of Aertex even further afield.

At the British Industries Fair in 1947 the company was listed as a “Manufacturer of Men's and Boys' ‘Aertex’ Underwear; Sports Shirts; Day Shirts; Pyjamas, etc.; Ladies' ‘Aertex’ Underwear, Blouses, Nightwear, Corsets, Brassieres, etc.; Children's ‘Aertex’ Underwear, Blouses, Nightwear, etc.; ‘Aertex’ Piece Goods for export.”

4.2. HISTORY OF WILLIAM HOLLINS & COMPANY AND THE VIYELLA BRAND

In 1784 Henry Hollins started a hosiery company with several other businessmen at a place called Pleasley Forge in Derbyshire, but it was not until Henry’s grandson, William Hollins became involved in the business that the company became well-known within the textile industry. The original name of Hollins & Company was changed to William Hollins & Company at this time. The business became a limited company in 1882.

A year later the fabric Viyella, made of 55% Merino wool and 45% cotton in a twill weave, was developed by James and Robert Sissons, who worked for the company. The product was first registered as a trademark in 1894. The name Viyella was derived from the Via Gellia, the road that leads from Cromford, Derbyshire where William Hollins had previously established a textile mill.

It was the first branded cloth in the world. Although originally sold as cloth to be made into clothing by other manufacturers, William Hollins & Company soon began to produce their own range of clothing under the Viyella brand. Over the years the company also developed and registered other brand names including Dayella and Clydella. Like the Cellular Clothing Company, William Hollins also attended the British Industries Fair in 1947, and their company was listed as “Viyella for Men, Women and Children everywhere. Spinners and Manufacturers of "Viyella" and "Clydella" Fabrics, Women's Underwear and Nightwear, Men's Shirts, Pyjamas and Hosiery; Nursery "Viyella" and Clydella Children's Wear.”

4.3. ESTABLISHMENT OF THE FACTORY ON NOTTINGHAM ROAD, SOMERCOTES

The recovery of the post-war economy of the UK depended on export sales to raise foreign currency. Companies like the Cellular Clothing Company presented increased export sales to the Board of Trade and applied for a building licence for a new factory. Suggestions regarding the siting of the factory were made and the site of an old brickworks on Nottingham Road, Somercotes was chosen. Although the site was outside the accepted centre of the textile industry the area had a relatively untapped female workforce and companies like Everlastic Ltd and George Edward & Sons had already established smaller factories in Somercotes.

While the new factory was being built the company started to look for temporary accommodation in the area. They initially chose a site on Quarry Road, Somercotes which was formerly used by a bookbinder. The Somercotes & Alfreton Advertiser, published on 14th March 1947 stated: “The Cellular Clothing Co Ltd Nottingham recently bought the property of the late Mr HENRY MILLER Bookbinder of Quarry Rd. They hope to begin production soon, employing about 40 local girls”.

Henry Miller was born in 1884. At the time of the 1939 Register he was residing at “The Poplars”, Flowery Leys Lane, Alfreton, and was described as a Master Bookbinder. The 1941 edition of Kelly’s Directory records Henry’s business on Quarry Road, Somercotes, but he continued to live at Alfreton. An advert appeared in the Derby Daily Telegraph for his business on 4th June 1946: “BOOKBINDING – Paper ruler wtd for good class work on double striker, 5-day week; also expd girls – Henry Miller (Bookbinders) Ltd., Quarry Road, Somercotes”. He died in December that year at his home on Flowery Leys Lane, at the age of 62 years, and his business was liquidated and the premises sold.

Although the factory was small it was ideally placed to attract local workers and enabled the Cellular Clothing Company to start manufacturing for their export business. As well as the Quarry Road factory, the company also started a small production facility in the old Town Hall at Alfreton. Workers recruited by the company were trained as machinists at their Traffic Street premises in Nottingham. As early as December 1946 preparations were being made to train the workforce, as can be seen in a short article published in the Derby Daily Telegraph on the 12th of that month: “Training Girls For New Alfreton Factory – In preparation for the opening of the temporary Alfreton factory of the Cellular Clothing Co., Ltd., of Nottingham, in Alfreton’s former Town Hall early next month, nearly 100 girls from the district are at present undergoing a course of training. An official of the firm told a "Telegraph" reporter today: "We have now completed the installation of machinery in our new premises, and we hope to start production as near January 1 as possible. The girls—all live around Alfreton —are being trained at Nottingham and will form a good nucleus begin with." He added that negotiations were still proceeding for the site on Nix's Hill, Alfreton, where the firm hopes to build a factory to provide work for 500."

PHOTO: The Temporary Aertex Factory at Alfreton Town Hall. c.1948

Site clearance at Nix Hill for the new factory had begun in 1948. The Alfreton Urban District Annual Report for that year listed business premises subject to a licence from the Ministry of Works, which included the Cellular Clothing Company, Nottingham Road, with the added text “…erection of new building.” As well as the Nix Hill site, the premises at High Street, Alfreton and Quarry Road, Somercotes were also mentioned, in relation to the inspection of fire escapes. Of the Quarry Road factory the Report stated that the “… escape of so many workers via [an] exit window and down slated roof of out-house does not seem to be very safe”. The Quarry Road factory was also listed in the council’s 1953 Annual Report, implying that it was still owned and operated by the company at that time.

Although work on the new factory progressed, due to issues with the building licences and construction costs it was built in sections and completed over several years. An advert for bricklayers and labourers published in the Nottingham Evening Post on the 24th November 1949, and another one on the 15th May 1950 stated: “Bricklayers urgently required at Aertex Factory, Somercotes near Alfreton. Factory completion urgently required for export drive… Pillat & Sons, Quorn Road, Nottingham”. The company of G.A. Pillat & Sons are listed in Kelly’s Directory for 1941, at Quorn Road and Hadyn Road, Nottingham.

The first phase of the factory opened in September 1950. The Nottingham Evening Post published an article on the opening 7th September. Although a long article, it is transcribed as follows in full: “FIRST SECTION OF NEW £100,000 FACTORY IS OPENED – The first section of a new factory which will, when completed, cost £100,000 and employ 1,500 workers was opened at Nix Hill, Somercotes yesterday. It is being built by the Cellular Clothing Company [Aertex] Ltd. The new section will begin production next week, with over 400 employees. Most of the workers will be women and girls. The opening ceremony was performed by Mr. A. C. Openshaw, chairman of the company, and chairman of the Amalgamated Cotton Mills Trust. Ltd. At the lunch which followed a toast to the factory was proposed by Mr. Openshaw, who said this area was not generally accepted as being within the centre of the textile industry. The firm’s factories in the past had always been in the Nottingham area, except for one at Swindon, but in each of them, they came up against the old problem—lack of labour. WISE CHOISE - They asked the Board of Trade to suggest districts in which they would be able to find the machinists needed. It was decided to settle in the Alfreton area, and experience had proved it to be a wise choice. They took over the old town hall in Alfreton High Street and now that was a thriving little factory, which was filling the breach until this new building could be got under way. Even the tiny factory In Quarry Road, Somercotes had shown how keen and adaptable the local girls were. For quite a long time these girls were taken daily into Nottingham to learn the intricacies of the various machines. Unfortunately, licences could only be granted for portion of the complete project, but within the near future they would be commencing production. EXPORT BUSINESS – Great emphasis had been placed on the vital need of exports if this country was to recover its economic stability, and they were fully alive to this, though realising that this could only be achieved with increased production. It was because of this assurance of increased export business that the Board of Trade agreed to endorse the application of a building licence. Even though it was not quite complete there had been achieved a factory in which all those who would work in it would be able to enjoy all the comforts that modern building methods could provide. He was sure local residents and the council would welcome the venture, which would provide useful and interesting employment for local girls under comfortable conditions within easy reach of home. Responding, the architect, Mr A W Betts, declared that this would be one of the finest factories of its type in the Midlands. Mr J H Vellacott, managing director of the Cellular Clothing Company proposing the toast of the visitors, praised the help given by Government departments. Mr. L. J. Mills, representing the Board of Trade, said the department was delighted that the factory was now an accomplished fact and would shortly be a very thriving industry. He had no doubt that it would be fully manned by Alfreton girls, and that it was going to be a very useful contribution to the neighbourhood, to put it on the map in a real sense, and provide good employment. It would also play its full part in the export drive, particularly for dollars without which this country could not live. Coun. A. Gent, chairman of Alfreton U.D.C., said that a census of 1945 showed that 300 workpeople left the district before 9 a.m. daily for employment outside the area, chiefly to the large towns, which meant for them two hours travelling to and from employment. Plans were bringing work to the people, instead of their seeking work outside, and many hundreds would be employed in this factory. BEAUTY QUEEN - A high spot was the introduction of ‘Miss Aertex,’ beauty queen of the firm, who was chosen last June. She is Miss Doreen Butler, of Swindon. With her were the two ‘runners-up’ Miss Rita Whetton, of 3 New Higham. Derby, who works at the new factory, and Miss Betty Fitchett, of 11 Firs Avenue, Alfreton who works at the old town hall factory, in Alfreton. Miss Butler is a machinist. She was presented with the trophy by Mr. Vellacott. Mr. Vellacott also presented a television set to Mr. John C. Finking. of 5 Selby Road. West Bridgford who is the firm's supervising factory manager. He retires this month after 57 years’ service with the firm. Mr. and Mrs. Openshaw were presented with a Georgian tea-set by the firm.”

The Nottingham Evening Post also ran an article on the official opening of the factory, in which it was stated that “… all-electric, the factory is the first half of a project by Cellular Clothing Company (Aertex). It is claimed to be the most modern of its type in existence. It stands near the main Nottingham-Alfreton road at Somercotes, and has taken a year to build. Costs of erection and equipment are estimated at £100,000. The building covers 30,000 square feet”.

The building fronted Nottingham Road and became an instant local landmark. Over the years various additions and alterations were made to the factory but it remained an iconic building. The company employed many female workers from the area as machinists, to manufacture various types of garments, including the “Somercotes Shirt”, which was advertised throughout the country as an Aertex branded item of clothing.

4.4 MERGER OF THE CELLULAR CLOTHING COMPANY AND WILLIAM HOLLINS & COMPANY

Over the years William Hollins & Company Ltd merged with other textile companies and became the core member of a larger group. Around 1961 it absorbed the Cellular Clothing Company and took over the trade name Aertex. It also adopted the new name of Viyella International Ltd, and in Somercotes the name Viyella became as synonymous with the factory has Aertex had been. Viyella International became one of the largest textile businesses in the UK.

The company was bought by ICI in 1969 and the following year ICI merged Viyella with a company called Carrington & Dewhurst. The new company became known as Carrington Viyella Ltd.

The later years of the 20th century were troubling for the textile industry in general, and Carrington Viyella, although one of the largest textile manufacturers in the country was, by the 1980s, laden with debt and other issues. In 1982, a company called Vantona Textiles made a bid for the whole of Carrington Viyella. At the time Carrington Viyella was approximately eight times larger than Vantona. Eventually the bid was successful and in February 1983 the company changed its name once more to become Vantona Viyella Plc. In 1985 the parent company merged with the Nottingham Manufacturing Company Plc, which had the result of bringing almost all of the textile and hosiery factories in Somercotes and the surrounding area under one owner.

PHOTO: The Aertex Factory on Nottingham Road, as originally built

In February 1986, one more merger took place. Vantona Viyella made a successful bid to takeover the company of Coats Patons Plc. The company name was then changed to reflect the largest and most well-known sections of this very large group of companies and became Coats Viyella Plc. This can be seen in an article in the Derby Daily Telegraph, published on 26th March 1987: “Firm's profits boost - Textile giant Coats Viyella, which has several factories in the Leabrooks and Somercotes area, has chalked up better than expected profits. Following the announcement that profits had jumped 21 per cent from £149,600,000 to £181,700,000, the group's shares soared by 33p to 627p. City analysts had been expecting a profit of about £174 million. The group was formed in February last year by a merger between Vantona Viyella, which owns shlrtmakers Van Houson and Peter England and Coats Patons, which takes in the Jaeger and Country Casuals retail chains.

In 1991, Coats Viyella bought out Tootal Ltd (which then owned English Sewing at Belper), but by this time the textile industry in the UK was already in decline. The fashion industry had changed dramatically in the forty years since the original Aertex factory had been built, and by the turn of the century much of the clothing available in the UK had been produced abroad. To compete in a volatile market many clothing retailers began to look elsewhere for their stock and in turn, UK manufacturers resorted to moving production overseas. In the year 2000, Coats Viyella abandoned the contract clothing business, severing a fifty year relationship with their client Marks & Spencer Plc. It immediately closed four factories and reduced its workforce, although the Somercotes operation was not at the time directly affected. However, the company proceeded to dispose of most of its remaining contract clothing business, closing factories that were not part of its new structure. The Somercotes factory survived for only a short period, closing in 2001.

PHOTO: The building, now styled the "Viyella Factory", photographed in 1972

4.5. CLOSURE AND DEMOLITION OF THE FACTORY

When the closure of the factory was announced in late 2000 it would not come as a surprise to many. Just prior to the closure the company divested the business to Marplace Ltd (later to change its name to Carrington Textiles Ltd). The closure was reported by journalist James Allen in the Derby Telegraph, who wrote: TEARS AS FACTORY CLOSES ITS DOORS – Almost 400 Alfreton textile workers bade farewell to each other yesterday as the town’s Coats Viyella knitwear factory closed its doors for the last time. A total of 380 workers were told in December {2000] that they would be made redundant after a £12m management buy-out of the company’s branded knitwear division. A week after Marplace had bought the division it announced a total of 1,226 redundancies in the East Midlands – 475 in Derbyshire. The new company blamed the job losses on the lack of orders after the Autumn and said it made the decision after talks with its major customer Marks & Spencer…. For many, working at the factory was all they had known since leaving school and a feeling of sadness hung in the air…”

In fact the situation had probably been developing over many years. As the textile industry in the United Kingdom merged into just a small number of large companies their customers, like Marks & Spencer Ltd., became more worried about their reliance on single suppliers for all of their clothing business. As early as the 1960s they voiced their opinion in this regard, to no effect. Companies like Coats Patons simply became too large, whilst smaller independent knitwear companies survive to this day.

The factory site on Nottingham Road, Somercotes was about 12 acres in size and included a football pitch where the company’s football team played in the local Sunday League. After closure the building was abandoned and the site became overgrown. It remained in a poor state until 2004 when demolition began. The demolition, although not a surprise, was lamented by many of the local population, but the site had been purchased by developers who could not use the original building in their plans

After demolition had been completed the site remained empty for many years. Development of the area for a new small retail park began in 2016 removing almost completely the last evidence of its once former use. Viyella shirts are still made to this day, and every button carries the name and date of 1784 (the founding year of William Hollins & Company).

5. DALKEITH KNITWEAR LTD, 1951

Dalkeith started life as Alfreton Knitting Mills, which was incorporated in January 1951 by a group of local people headed by a Mr. Walter Hambleton. The company purchased an old knitting machine dating from the 1890s and began production in a disused school classroom.

Alfreton Knitting Mills continued production and set up an agency in Canada in 1953 through a company which became known as Dalkeith Agencies Ltd. In 1958, they purchased land at Nottingham Road on the Somercotes-Alfreton parish border.

The company appointed a new managing director Mr. Dennis Walton in April 1963 and soon after the company changed its name to Dalkeith Knitwear Ltd. The following year it merged with their Canadian agents. By this time the factory on Nottingham Road was in full production and the premises were extended in 1964 to cope with the growing demand for its knitwear products. In the mid-1960s, the factory employed 470 workers, of which the vast majority were women.

ABOVE: Advert for Dalkeith "Fine Quality Knitwear"

The company used fine gauge machinery that produced a greater yarn count and knitted premium garments from high quality yarn. Their products were aimed at the luxury end of the market. In 1965, Dalkeith Knitwear purchased Hawick Knitwear Ltd, who manufactured a range of lamb’s wool and cashmere garments (this company was sold to the Hawick subsidiary of Jaeger about 1984, who then closed that factory shortly afterwards).

Dalkeith Knitwear Ltd merged with Coats Paton (UK) Ltd in 1969, becoming part of the Coats Paton Knitwear Division. Coats Paton would later merge with Carrington Viyella to become Coats Viyella, which had a factory in Somercotes, situated near to Dalkeith’s. It is believed that after this merger Dalkeith used part of the Viyella factory for the storage of their products, both companies being essentially part of the same group.

PHOTO: Workers at the Dalkeith Factory in its heyday

The decline in the textile business reduced the sales of Dalkeith products and the owners closed the factory around the late 1990s.

6. MONTFORT (KNITTING MILLS) LTD, 1965

Montfort Ltd. began life in 1868 as Newby, Brown and Humberstone, hosiery manufacturers of Belvoir Street, Leicester. In 1884, one of the partners left and William Newby formed a new partnership, which became Newby, Groves and Meakin Ltd. William Newby died in 1893. The trade name “Montfort” was registered around 1900, taking its name from the areas association with Simon de Montfort, Earl of Leicester.

The company expanded despite the difficulties the industry experienced during the two World Wars. In 1947, it became a public company taking on the trade name of Montfort. As the firm grew in the early 1960’s new premises were required, and a factory in Somercotes was established in 1965. This was situated on Nottingham Road (next to the Royal Tiger Inn). The 1970’s and 1980’s saw a steady decline in the textile industry and the Palma Textile Group absorbed Montfort (Knitting Mills) Ltd. in 1983.

The downturn in business had a profound effect on the factory at Somercotes, which was closed around the mid-1980s. After closure the building was demolished and a new one constructed for Andrew Shane Ltd, also a textile company. It is now a solicitors practice.